Today I wasn’t going to push myself. I’m not good at that. I climbed even more in total today - it wasn’t as fraught the entire time as the paths were less horrifying, but … I was definitely pushing myself to the limit of recovery / endurance.
Grabbed what turned out to be not enough breakfast and some food for the day, knowing I really wasn’t going to see another spot for it until I caught a train to civilisation. I had some energy gel things and a block of dark chocolate floating around in my bag so I figured that’d be enough.
Grabbed the 0902 train to Mikisato, it’s still an adorable seaside town. Found the beach bathroom which is covered in signage about how the showers being shut down, and that people shouldn’t sleep in the car park. There’s more signage all over the place that indicates camping is an issue they don’t want to have to deal with, and that if you choose to swim in their ocean-facing beach, it’s on you if anything happens.
Bladder suitably purged, it was time to start the day… across a bridge that was being resurfaced by the nicest road crew I’ve ever interacted with. The portly gent with the shoulder length bleached blonde hair escaping from his helmet led me to the path way and ensured I was checked safely across the other side by his coworker on the other end. His … easily octogenarian sign holder was very excited to ask if I was on the Kumano, and yelled something I’m not sure I could parse even if I knew more Japanese.
Yo have you heard there’s bears? Lots of bears. Ring that bell, yo.
I started reading up on Illotibial Band Syndrome today, it seems to explains my hip joints and knee pain. Urgh. Not great. It’s not constant, so that’s a good sign so far?
Pass one wasn’t too bad.
Pass two.. whyyy?
Met two gents who maintain (pass three) and had a quick chat with them in broken English… thanked them for their work and talked about what I’d been up to. They sent me off with a がんばって! Which my energy-starved brain didn’t parse until much later. Im having enough issue with English let alone my terrible Japanese 🫠
I should have cut the walk after the first two, but by the time I was ¾ to the way to the “summit” I was committed. Around this time I met the second humans I’ve met on this walk (who were actually there for anything Kumano related)
Perfect timing, I was just taking a photo saying “one wrong step and I die horribly on this mountain” when my phone started to blow up about Trump. I didn’t need that to end my day. What a shit show.
I finally hit “reality” again, emerging from the forest into a construction site. More down and up and down again!
Then into Nigishima proper, and to the train sta… oh for fuck’s sake. More stairs?
I met? Was acknowledged and nodded and largely got ignored after that by an old guy yesterday… didn’t see him today until I walked into the train station almost dead and he’s there 😂 I burst out laughing while saying good evening, not sure he got it.
The hour and a bit train ride to the seaside stop where my hotel is located was uneventful and full of Japanese school girls, half of which spent the whole time giggling and chatting and the other half instantly fell asleep. It must be nice to feel so secure, but also I’m guessing insanely long days of cramming will do that.
The hotel is another Marriott, they have a stamp rally! I missed the stamp last time, I’m almost tempted to try and stop on the way back at Odai 😂
Dinner at the yakiniku place next door. Amazing beef. Heart sashimi. Beer. Nom.
Raided the supermarket for more snacks and then crashed out hard before 11… then woke up before 4am. Ow. Tomorrow’s a rest day. Ow.
Also: Merino wool is truly magical… the polyester stuff STINKS but my socks and under layers don’t have a scent at all 😳